It’s not what I had pictured when accepting an invitation to dine and stay at the award-winning Three Chimneys restaurant on the Isle of Skye – where a newly appointed head chef endeavours to make his mark.
So how did we end up sampling the Skye, Land & Sea tasting menu surrounded by whirring produce-fridges and shelves stacked high with metal mixing bowls?
Pictured: A view of the Kitchen Table at the Three Chimneys (Image: Supplied) Rewind just a few hours earlier to check-in, when having successfully navigated the single-track road that winds through the village of Colbost, we were grateful to have been greeted with the offer of a mulled wine.
Two rare spaces had become available at the Kitchen Table that evening, we were told once the drinks had been poured.
“Would we like to book in for this rather than for a la carte menu as planned?”
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I’ve experienced chef’s tables a handful of times before, designed to give you a deeper understanding of each dish with the chance to steal a few moments of conversation with the team before they return to the kitchen to bounce between stovetop and pass.
Knowing that Paul Green has just stepped into the leading role at The Three Chimneys previously held by Scott Davies for almost a decade, the answer here was of course a firm yes.
It was only when we were led past the restaurant space, and through the swinging doors into a world of stainless steel and chef whites not usually seen by mere mortals that we realised quite how different this evening’s meal would be.
Tucked away at the back of the kitchen is our table, with seven place settings giving a front-row seat to the action during a busy weekend service.
Pictured: The immersive experience places diners in he hear of the action (Image: Supplied)
A shared appreciation for the surreal nature of the setting, and pre-dinner negroni, go a long way in breaking the ice between our fellow diners, an interesting bunch who would likely never have broken bread together were it not for this evening.
There’s a young professional couple from East Lothian, the foodie type who are well-versed on the hottest new restaurant openings across the country.
A few seats down are another duo from Aberfeldy, one of whom it transpires is responsible for crafting much of the bespoke wooden furniture found throughout the hotel’s six rooms.
Finally, beside me sits a young architecture student who has walked here in the wind and rain in search of one final celebratory meal before returning home to Berlin after months of travelling.
We’re just starting to grill him on the Scottish highlights of his trip when our server, Courtney, arrives to brief us on the running order of the evening.
“You’re welcome to take as many videos and pictures as you like,” she says, “or get up to chat between courses.”
“And if you need to use the bathrooms, they’re through the kitchen and back out in the restaurant.”
Speaking of the main restaurant, the guests booked on that side of the wall now appear to be trickling in, with orders for set menu dishes relayed concisely by a small team of waiting staff darting in and out of the kitchen.
We’ll have the opportunity to experience a meal out there tomorrow, and although thoroughly charmed by the cosy, intimate space, find ourselves missing the theatre of dining in the heart of the operation at the Kitchen Table.
For now, the first dishes to make the short journey to our placemats are marinated Dunvegan langoustine and colourful soused peppers contrasting against the pale flesh of paprika-cured monkfish.
Both are served cold, and there’s a real lightness of touch displayed in the handling of the seafood here, with just a gentle nudge of citrus and spice to enhance the natural flavour and freshness.
Then come the black garlic, onion and oregano rolls, still warm from the oven so that a side of crowdie and crème fraiche with a sprinkle of Isle of Skye sea salt disappears quickly into the sweet, dense dough.
They disappear amongst us so fast that a team member takes it upon themselves to print out the recipe to pass on to us before our stay is over. I gladly accept but know full well it would take far more skill than I could muster to recreate these lovely little tear-apart loaves at home.
Understandably making the most of the incredible bounty of seafood the Island has to offer, the chef’s menu of the day leans heavily towards fish dishes like seared Sconser scallops with orange and rosemary or a generous slab of turbot drenched in a herby, potted clam butter.
The only red meat on the menu is Glendale Estate venison, sourced locally and accompanied by a rich walnut ketchup and cabbage. It’s seasonal eating at its best: the sort of robust winter dish you savour all the more during the long, cold nights.
The same could be said of the almond sponge with mulled and cardamon ice cream, an explosion of aromatic spices and nuttiness demonstrating the talent of the same pastry chef responsible for those dreamy bread rolls.
We know this to be the case as we’ve had a front-row seat for observing the entire kitchen team at work all night, plating up neat rows of dishes with military precision before sending them on their way.
With the fine dining chef having a bit of a moment in popular culture thanks to TV dramas like The Bear or Boiling Point, it’s hard to imagine an experience that would fill a fan or longtime foodie’s heart with more glee than pulling up a seat at The Kitchen Table.
Only when the hobs are turned off, counters sanitised, and the final dish sent from the pass, do the kitchen staff slowly melt away. A few of them will be back to work the breakfast shift, after all.
And on a night like this where the wind is howling outside and rain batters the windows, it’s hard to imagine anywhere more enticing to retire to than the rooms in the House Over-By.
Pictured: One of six rooms in the House Over-By (Image: Supplied)
Ours is split-level, all Scandi chic and understated with just enough luxury flourishes to remind you of its five-star status.
The wool throw draped across the bed is handcrafted by the Skye Weavers, the coffee provided by the fabulous Inverness Coffee Roasting Company, and the toiletries curated by Laura Thomas Co. exclusively for the hotel.
It feels strangely like being at home, only much better.
A gloriously deep night’s sleep follows before the next day brings more adventure on the Isle of Skye as we discover the Three Chimneys outlet at the historic Talisker Distillery.
Pictured: The Three Chimneys at Talisker (Image: Supplied) First launched as a pop-up early last year, the venue has a contemporary charm which sets it apart from its older sister.
Here, the most popular dish appears to be the large seafood platters served on ice which are being torn into by visitors as they admire the views across Loch Harport.
We instead turn our attention to the Made by the Sea tasting menu, with a handful of ingredients like double-dived Sconser scallops or crab and Isle of Mull Cheddar that we recognise from the night before.
It’s a delight. Particularly that langoustine raviolo in a pool of comforting seafood bisque which had convinced us to forego the ‘Lighter Fare’ options including Carbost Skink, Loch Duart Salmon rillettes or cod scampi with root vegetable slaw in the first place.
Once plates of whisky-infused Tiramisu are polished off, we find our chance to quiz head chef Paul Green on his 20 years of international experience with some of the UK’s most acclaimed chefs including Simon Rogan and Martin Wishart.
He has big shoes to fill at the Three Chimneys but can proudly say his new role is a homecoming of sorts having worked as a commis chef at the restaurant 20 years ago under Michael Smith.
Now in the top spot, he plans to continue the legacy laid down by prioritising above all seasonal and hyper-local produce that will make his dishes sing.
Pictured: A new era beckons for the Three Chimneys (Image: Supplied) In the weeks between our visit and the official announcement of Green as head chef, I’ll be intrigued to read reports of The Three Chimneys submitting ambitious plans for expansion.
If given the go-ahead, they would see owners The Wee Hotel Company create 12 new jobs and increase the total rooms on the premises to 20.
It seems it’s not just a new chef ushering in the next era of this Scottish institution which once held a Michelin Star.
Though only time will tell what the future holds, having been thoroughly spoiled by the team at this home away from home, I have to wonder what more could be done to make this experience any more special than it already is.
I’d gladly return to my seat in the kitchen anytime.
A ‘Wee Winter Break’ at The Three Chimneys and The House Over-By includes overnight accommodation and breakfast for two guests from Friday, January 24 until Monday, March 31, 2025.
The package price starts from £275 per room, per night, based on two people sharing a room on a bed and breakfast basis.
For more information on a ‘Wee Winter Break’ at The Three Chimneys or The Kitchen Table dining experience visit www.threechimneys.co.uk.