Dozens of pubs all over London have ‘railway’ in the name – but few can claim to be inside a genuine Victorian station.
The Phoenix is the exception. Here, in a converted ticket hall that once served Denmark Hill overground station, timetables have made way for tipple. Popular with both commuters and Camberwell hipsters, its soaring views over the train line below, and quaint passenger benches, make it a real South London gem.
The building was built as part of the main station between 1864 to 1866. For over a century, it served its original purpose as a ticket office. But when the station caught fire in the 1980s, the building was heavily damaged.
Fortunately, in stepped the pub chain Firkin Brewery. The pub chain bought the building and renovated it in 1984. The new establishment, Grade-II Listed since 1988, was named the Phoenix & Firkin, fitting for a boozer that had literally risen from the ashes.
The bar of The Phoenix pub on Windsor Walk, Denmark Hill Station. Credit: The Phoenix
Now owned by restaurant chain Mitchells & Butlers, the pub retains many of its original features. The interior has soaring vaulted ceilings, rising high into wooden rafters, from which dangles a vintage block. There are arched windows with traditional passenger benches perched out front.
Victorian architecture buffs will also know that the building was designed by Charles Henry Driver, who masterminded many of South London’s iconic railways, including Peckham Rye Station. His influence is shown in the exposed brickwork and ornate detailings still visible today.
Clientele can climb a spiral staircase to an impressive mezzanine area. In the summer months, many opt to sit out front where they can watch as London Overground trains rumble up the Windrush Line towards the Thames and on to North London.
The Phoenix pub on Windsor Walk, Denmark Hill Station. Credit: The Phoenix
Denmark Hill Station was crowned the UK’s second best station in 2023, narrowly losing to Wemyss Bay in Scotland. In December of that year, it underwent another round of restoration when The Arch Company led a £320,000 revamp of the derelict Station Master’s House.
The station is so pretty that, three months ago, a couple who shared their first kiss on the platform got engaged there. In October, gawping commuters watched as lovebird Ian Stoney dropped to one knee and popped the question to his girlfriend Laura McKinley. Station staff made the occasion special by bringing back a retired member of GTR staff, Christopher Clayton, to make the tannoy announcement as the couple had fond memories of him.
The bar stocks a wide variety of drinks. They include pints of Brooklyn Stonewall IPA, Budvar lager and Deya Steady Rolling Man – a pale ale that packs a punch. Food is on the pricey side – chicken schnitzel for £17 and a smoked bacon cheeseburger for £17.50 gives you an idea.