Mankind has cherished the fordable narrows on the river here since time immemorial, but it was Minnigaff on the opposite bank that first emerged as a settlement and a fulcrum on the pilgrimage route south down to St Ninian’s shrine in Whithorn. Indeed it wasn’t until the mid-17th century that William Stewart put his stamp on this bank and Newton Stewart emerged as a royal burgh with the first bridge built as the Jacobites marched in 1745.
Today’s Bridge of Cree was the work of John Rennie the Elder, fashioned in 1813 in sturdy stone to last, unlike its flimsy predecessor. It sets the tone for a trim town whose river banks and main street are lined with similarly sturdy stone buildings built to last. I wander across the bridge and ease up the High Street. Then slip back through time. The ideal place to explore Newton Stewart’s history is at the local museum, which is open by request over winter. Set in a grand old 19th century church, this is a gloriously old school museum alive with costumed dummies and all manner of intriguing bric-a-brac. The 10,000 strong collection hoards everything from wartime memorabilia, through to vintage toys and on to period costumes and uniforms. Then there is the old pulpit you can preach from today. The newspaper archives upstairs are a fascinating deep dive into the town’s past.
Many high streets around Scotland are struggling at the moment and I had fears for Newton Stewart, especially given it has both a Sainsburys and an Aldi. But alongside a few boarded up buildings I find a brace of butchers and a sprinkling of independent shops. I also come across an active livestock market and the community-run cinema, where the premiere of The Wicker Man was screened. Then there is the dynamic Newton Stewart Initiative, who help local young people and stage events that bring the community together. Just across the road is a brilliant community-run hub, the Vault Arts Centre. This would be a shining star any Scottish town would welcome.
They stage myriad gigs and live music nights. There are festivals too – choose from their Bluegrass Festival, Blues Weekend, the Jazz, Funk and Soul Festival, or their brace of folk extravaganzas. The bar is well stocked with local beers, plus Dumfries and Galloway gin and whisky too. On that note another bright business peers over town from a bluff, opening up sweeping views of the hills that lend Newton Stewart such a dramatic setting.
(Image: Robin McKelvie) The Crafty Distillery is no sneaky gin operation buying in industrial spirit. They distil from scratch and use local botanicals, with one annual release solely using flavours from the local area. They are distilling whisky too. I sneaked a wee taste of a newmake laid down for only six months and it shows real promise so watch this space; They already offer tours and gin tastings. Another creative business bustles away in the grand surrounds of Penninghame Estate. Owned by a wealthy American family, they are trying to be all things to all people. There is a cookery school and you can stay here self-catering. They stage events and talk of setting up mountain biking. They have swathes of plans and a lot of energy, so they are worth checking up if you’re planning a trip to Newton Stewart.
Newton Stewart is very much a gateway. It offers easy access to the Galloway Forest Park, which was set up way back in 1947. It’s an oasis of rugged hill and glen – ideal mountain biking and hiking territory. The mountain bike centres at Glentrool and nearby Kirroughtree are both excellent for all skill levels. I rode around the blue and red forest runs at Kirroughtree and appreciated them, the excellent café and the superb bike shop, the Breakpad, where you can hire out all the gear, including e-bikes.
(Image: Robin McKelvie) No wonder the annual Newton Stewart Walking Festival – said to be Scotland’s oldest – is so popular, with the sort of scenery the wraps itself around Newton Stewart and the wider area. It now offers its many repeat visitors 30 routes. If the new Galloway National Park gets the go ahead the UK’s first forest park will no doubt be at the heart of Scotland’s third largest park. It is already a key part of the Galloway and South Ayrshire Biosphere Reserve. The area is also ranked for its Dark Skies, with tours available to help you discover them.
Newton Stewart is already a Dumfries and Galloway market town with real heart set in a remarkably scenic part of Scotland. Those already in the know enjoy its quiet charms unfettered by the masses – on many local hikes you see more wildlife than people in this Gateway to the Galloway Hills. If national park status comes the secret will finally be out about the town that was never meant to be on the River Cree. Visit scotlandstartshere.com
(Image: Robin McKelvie)
Bed down in Newton Stewart
Creebridge House Hotel
Just across the eponymous river, this old school hotel offers a friendly welcome and comfortable rooms, 17 of them, all en suite. The real charm is downstairs in a popular restaurant and equally popular bar, where you won’t be a stranger for long. There are three acres of grounds too. You’ll appreciate the roaring log fires after a bracing hike. creebridge.co.uk
Corsbie Villa Guest House
Newton Stewart doesn’t overflow with great accommodation options, so this friendly guest house is welcome. It comes with the bonus of views out over the town and out over to the Galloway Hills. They do a mean breakfast to set you up for a day exploring; ask nicely and they might even stretch to dinner. newtonstewartbedandbreakfast.co.uk
Glentrool Hive
A relaxed escape close to Newton Stewart, ideal for the Galloway Forest Park. This community-run hub is a wonder, set in a brilliantly reimagined school, with a great café, a well-stocked gift shop and regular events. Not to mention The Coorie, their excellent (and excellent value) self-catering hideaway. You’ll sleep well knowing that the money you spend in his SCOTO member is ploughed back into the local community. glentroolhive.co.uk